The fourteenth day on Indonesian soil was a day that was highly anticipated yet slightly worried about (especially by Nisa, who was responsible for the safety of her VVIP guests). Coinciding with their visit to Sumba, the peak of the Nyale (sea worm) celebration concluded with the legendary Pasola tradition was taking place. Nisa, after confirming the schedule and security level, decided that this was a rare opportunity for The Corrs to witness firsthand one of Indonesia's most unique and dramatic cultural heritages. From a very, very safe distance, of course.
That morning, the group departed for a wide field in the Kodi or Lamboya area (the Pasola location can shift depending on traditional calculations), where the ritualistic war game would be held. The atmosphere was already palpable. Thousands of people from all corners of Sumba poured into the area around the field. Many wore their best traditional attire – brightly colored ikat woven cloths, magnificent head decorations, and parangs (machetes) tucked into their waists (which made Andrea slightly shiver). The sounds of excited shouts, laughter, and pounding traditional music could be heard from a distance.
"This... this is like a rock music festival but a more... traditional and tense version?" Caroline commented as they walked toward the specially prepared VVIP area, tightly escorted by Presidential Guards and local security officers.
"You could say that, Caroline," Nisa replied. "Pasola is not a real war, but more of a traditional ritual to celebrate the harvest season, honor the ancestors, and also, they say, to 'spill blood onto the earth' so the next harvest will be abundant. Although they use dull wooden spears, it still requires extraordinary courage and skill from the pasola (horse riders)."
Their VVIP area was a simple yet sturdy wooden stage, slightly elevated from the regular spectators, offering a clear view of the wide field where the battle would take place. Several comfortable chairs were prepared, along with cold drinks and a typical Sumba snack: Manggulu. Manggulu is a sweet, sticky candy shaped like dodol or a hard chew, made from sun-dried bananas, then finely mashed with peanuts and wrapped in dry corn husks.
"Oh, banana candy? Interesting!" Andrea exclaimed, immediately picking one up and tasting it. "Hmm, the sweetness is unique! A bit... smoky? Delicious!" The others also joined in trying it. Its unique sweet, sticky taste with a hint of smoky aroma was an interesting contrast to the tense atmosphere on the field.
Not long after, the Pasola ritual began. It started with a parade of the Rato (traditional leaders) riding decorated horses, followed by the entry of two groups of pasola from different villages, each consisting of dozens of brave youths on their nimble Sandalwood horses. They wore only headbands and woven cloth, were bare-chested, holding small leather shields and wooden spears with dulled tips (though still looking dangerous).
War cries echoed. Horses whinnied excitedly. Then, the two groups began to face each other in the wide field. At high speed, they charged at each other, throwing wooden spears while maintaining balance on their fast-running, bareback horses. The atmosphere was filled with the loud cheers of spectators encouraging them.