The seventeenth morning in Kalimantan was greeted by the lively sounds of exotic monkeys and birdsong from the dense forest on both sides of the Sekonyer River. Their klotok boat had anchored not far from a simple wooden jetty that served as the entrance to one of the most iconic places in Tanjung Puting: Camp Leakey. This place is not just an ordinary research post, but a center for long-term orangutan rehabilitation and study pioneered by Dr. Birutė Galdikas, one of the three legendary female primatology 'angels' (alongside Jane Goodall and Dian Fossey).
A mix of enthusiasm and slight tension could be felt among the group as they prepared to disembark from the klotok. Nisa gave a final brief, reiterating her 'Jungle Survival Tips,' especially the part about maintaining a safe distance and not making prolonged eye contact with male orangutans.
"And Andrea," Nisa added, looking at The Corrs' vocalist with a meaningful smile, "the organic bananas should be left on the boat, okay?"
Andrea, who had indeed prepared a super plump bunch of Ambon bananas ("Who knows, maybe they like organic ones from Ireland?" was her reason yesterday), immediately pouted but complied. "Yes, yes, Nisa. No banana bribes today."
The short walk from the jetty to the feeding platform area passed through a wooden boardwalk in the middle of the peat swamp forest. The air felt very humid, the aroma of damp earth and decaying leaves was intensely rich. The buzzing sound of forest insects was loud, occasionally interspersed with the cracking of branches or the distant cries of primates.
"This place feels... so ancient," Sharon whispered, observing the roots of the giant trees that twisted around. "Like stepping back into prehistory."
"Perhaps it is," Jim responded, his eyes busy observing the moss and fungi growing on the tree trunks. "A primary rainforest ecosystem like this holds the traces of millions of years of evolution. I wonder if the DNA of this moss can reveal the secrets of the ancient climate..."
"Jim, can we focus on the orangutans first, and talk about moss DNA later?" Andrea cut in slightly irritated, her steps cautious, her eyes keenly observing every corner of the forest, as if afraid a giant leech or python might suddenly appear. Caroline walked beside her, equally tense, but more worried about tripping over a tree root.
Upon arriving at the feeding platform area – a simple elevated wooden stage in the middle of the jungle – they were asked to sit quietly in the designated visitor area. Several national park rangers and local researchers were prepared with buckets filled with bananas and milk as supplemental food for the semi-wild orangutans who still occasionally came to the camp. The atmosphere was silent and full of anticipation.
They didn't have to wait long. From the thick foliage in the distance, the rustling sound of branches grew louder. Then, they appeared. Not with the nimble leaps of ordinary monkeys, but with movements that were slow, graceful, yet full of strength. One by one, individual Bornean orangutans (Pongo pygmaeus) began arriving at the feeding platform. There were mothers gently carrying their young, young males still learning independence, and perhaps even Tom, the legendary alpha male orangutan king of Camp Leakey (though he might have been busy tending to his 'kingdom' in another part of the forest that day).
The Corrs were utterly silent, genuinely captivated. Seeing the magnificent, reddish-brown-haired creatures move so calmly in their natural habitat was an experience far different from seeing them in a zoo. Their physical strength was evident from their long, muscular arms that easily carried them swinging from branch to branch. Their deep gaze seemed to hold the wisdom of the jungle.