The journey to the Banda Islands in Central Maluku felt like time travel. After the comfort of the presidential plane that took them from North Sumatra to Ambon, the capital of Maluku, the onward journey to Banda Neira felt more like an 'adventure.' They boarded a smaller pioneer plane, flying low over a greenish-blue ocean dotted with clusters of small volcanic islands that looked like scattered emeralds. The scenery was dramatic and different from everything they had seen before.
"It feels like we are flying towards the end of the world," Sharon whispered to Andrea, her eyes glued to the plane window.
"The end of the world that hopefully has Wi-Fi signal," quipped Andrea, slightly anxious imagining being isolated from civilization (and social media).
As the small plane landed on the simple runway of Banda Neira Airport, they were immediately greeted by warm sea air and a distinct, subtle yet strong aroma: a sweet scent of nutmeg and cloves carried by the wind. The small town of Banda Neira itself looked so calm and charming. Old colonial buildings left by the Dutch, with partially peeling paint, stood gracefully along the narrow streets, side by side with simple local houses. There was no big-city hustle and bustle, only the peaceful atmosphere of a small island seemingly frozen in history.
Their accommodation was a beautifully renovated historical guesthouse, perhaps formerly a Dutch official's residence, with a lush garden full of nutmeg and kenari trees.
"This place has a... different aura," Jim said, observing the guesthouse architecture. "I can feel the layers of history on these walls. Tales of spice glory, colonialism, slavery, rebellion..."
"Jim, can we save the history lecture until after we've had some young coconut ice?" Caroline cut in, already feeling hot after getting off the plane.
Their first agenda in Banda Neira was exploring the island's icon: Belgica Fortress. This 17th-century Dutch fortress, shaped like a pentagon, stood firmly on a small hill, facing the harbor and the majestic Banda Api Volcano towering gracefully across the sea. Its condition was very well-maintained; its thick stone walls seemed to hold a thousand stories.
They climbed the stone stairs to the top of the fortress. From the top of the bastion, the view was truly incredible. Blue ocean as far as the eye could see, small green islands surrounding it, the peaceful town of Banda Neira below, and the imposing Banda Api Volcano.
"This is the most beautiful view I've seen during this trip!" Andrea exclaimed, momentarily forgetting her anxiety about the Wi-Fi signal. She immediately got busy taking selfies with the Banda Api Volcano as the backdrop.